How do I reset an electric bike battery?

In addition to mechanical problems, an electric-assist bike is also subject to other problems of an electronic nature. Here are a few tips on how to protect your battery from wear and tear, and how to reset the battery in certain cases.

A faulty contact, a bug, or occasional damage to electronic equipment can occur at any time. It's rare, but the battery of an electric bike is just as susceptible to such problems. Before diagnosing a serious breakdown or a completely flat battery, it's a good idea to run a reset procedure to remedy a minor problem.

A few phenomena may point you in the right direction, such as an abnormal electric bike range, a percentage melting like snow in the sun, non-functional or jerky assistance, or even an error code on your electric bike.

If the VAE indicates an error code or malfunction, stop and switch off the assistance system.

Do you have to remove the battery from your electric bike? Yes, if it's removable, which isn't the case with all models. Remove it from its housing and place it outside.

If you don't know what is happening, or if you don't have an error code or display, overheating may be the cause of the battery malfunction. So it's best to let the battery rest and cool down before handling it. Then, carefully and without sudden shock, replace your battery in its cradle.

Switch the electric bike back on and check the battery level. Finally, test the assistance in maximum mode (delivering maximum motor and battery power). You have the option of testing on the spot by lifting the rear of the EAB and turning the pedals, or simply riding for a few dozen meters to check that it's working properly.

To limit the inconvenience of using your electric bike, here are a few tips that will benefit the life and health of your battery.

The lithium-ion batteries used in electric bikes don't like temperatures that are too low or too high. Below 0°C, their performance is degraded, resulting in reduced autonomy. If you regularly store your EAB battery in very cold weather, it is at greater risk of deep discharge. High temperatures can damage your battery or even render it unusable, as it is made of plastic materials.

An electric bike and/or battery comes with its own charger. It's usually 2 or 4 amps. Be aware that charging at higher amperages - faster - will result in premature wear.

What's more, don't try out an unsuitable charger, which could damage the battery, or in the worst-case scenario, cause a power surge or even a short-circuit and start a fire.

On your bike, make sure you place it roughly in its cradle, lock it with the key (sometimes the lock is automatic), then close the battery pack flap if it's housed in the frame. The latter provides better protection against heat and rain.

When storing your bike outdoors, disconnect the battery and store it indoors. Ideally, the temperature should be ambient, with no humidity, so avoid a cellar in the middle of winter. Avoid immobilizing the battery at low charge - again, because of the risk of damage or even "deep discharge" - as well as at 100%.

Battery status consists of two pieces of information: percentage capacity and number of recharging cycles. The more you recharge, the more your maximum capacity decreases. As a general rule, an electric bike battery is given to retain 70% of its initial capacity after 500 to 1,000 full charges.

Not everyone is familiar with this data, as it is rarely available in the applications of your bike's power assistants. So you need to use a specific diagnostic tool to find out.

It may come as a surprise, but some batteries are not totally protected from the outside world. Cases are not waterproof, so remember to wipe down the battery and its cradle after riding in the rain. Also, riding regularly with dust can alter operation over time. This is particularly true of MTB electric.