Which battery should you choose? It depends on your cycling habits.
You're about to buy an electric bike. Or maybe you've noticed that your current battery isn't performing as well as it used to. And that's when it starts: you see terms like watt-hour, ampere, and voltage, and you probably think to yourself, "What exactly should I be looking out for?"
The right battery is, above all, the one that suits your riding style. No more, no less.
In this article, I explain everything step by step, without unnecessary jargon. By the end, you'll know exactly which battery is right for you and why.
Written by: Hanna Stevens | January 6, 2025 | Reading time: 6 minutes
More about the author: Hanna Stevens
Hanna is an avid cyclist who loves exploring new routes and sharing her experiences to inspire others to get on their bikes more often.
Key findings
- The watt-hour (Wh) is the most important figure when choosing a battery.
- More capacity = more freedom, especially in cold or windy weather
- When in doubt: better a little too big than too small.
What exactly do V, Ah, and Wh mean?
These three values together indicate the power and autonomy of your battery. Before making a choice, it is useful to understand these basic concepts. You will find them on each battery.
Voltage (V): How powerful is the battery?
Voltage corresponds to the "pressure" with which the current flows in your e-bike. The higher the voltage, the more power the motor can deliver easily. This is especially noticeable when starting off, on hills, and when carrying a heavy load.
Most modern e-bikes use:
- 36 V → standard, perfectly suited for everyday use
- 48 V (or more) → more power and greater efficiency for intensive use
Ampere-hour (Ah): how big is the "tank"?
This value indicates the amount of current that the battery can store. Taken alone, Ah does not tell the whole story, but when combined with voltage, it becomes meaningful.
- More Ah = you drive longer
- Less Ah = battery drains faster
Watt-hour (Wh): the most important figure
This is the key figure to look at.The watt-hour represents the total amount of energy contained in the battery.
The formula is simple: Voltage × Ampere-hour = Watt-hour
Golden rule: the higher the number of Wh, the greater your range.
Personally, I hardly watch anything other than Wh anymore. It makes comparisons much easier.
What kind of cyclist are you?
Your usage determines the battery you need. Not everyone needs a huge battery. In some cases, this just means more weight and unnecessary costs. So first ask yourself this question: how do I use my e-bike?
The urban cyclist: you mainly make short trips
Do you use your electric bike in the city for shopping, sightseeing, or going to the gym? Flat terrain, distances of 15 to 25 km maximum?
In this case, it is usually sufficient to:
- Capacity: 300–400 Wh
- Voltage: 36 V
Why it works:For short trips, a large battery is often unnecessary. You pay more and carry extra weight without really using the range. For purely urban use, I would never opt for an overly large battery. I prefer to invest that money in better tires a more enjoyable motor.
The daily commuter: you use your bike to get to work
Do you cycle to work almost every day, even in windy and cold weather? And do you want to arrive stress-free, even if you need to use the assistance more?
So aim instead:
- Capacity: 400–600 Wh
- Voltage: 36 V or 48 V
Why it's a smart choice:
You don't want to have to calculate every day whether you'll make it to your destination. Extra capacity gives you peace of mind, especially in winter when batteries drain faster. If you ride every day, I always recommend choosing a little more than you strictly need. Those extra few Wh make cycling much more enjoyable.
The adventurer: you enjoy long outings
Do you often go on long walks on weekends, on vacation, or in hilly terrain?
Then you need more:
- Capacity: minimum 600 Wh
- Voltage: 48 V or 52 V
Some bikes even offer a dual battery system: two batteries that work together for enormous range.
Why it's essential:
Running out of battery power when you're already tired is really unpleasant. More capacity simply means more freedom.
Parents riding cargo bikes or cyclists carrying heavy loads
- Capacity: often more than 500 Wh
- Voltage: preferably 48 V
For this type of bike, an LFP (Lithium Iron Phosphate) battery is sometimes used. It is heavier, but extremely safe, very durable, and ideal for intensive use. For a cargo bike, I would never skimp on the battery.
Where is the battery located, and why is this important?
The location of the battery directly influences the stability and handling of the bike.
Battery integrated into the frame
- Lower center of gravity
- More stable behavior
- More comfortable at high speeds and when cornering
This is particularly common on modern, sporty e-bikes.
Battery on luggage rack
- Easy to remove
- Often a little cheaper
- Weight positioned high and rearward
For quiet urban use, it's perfectly fine, but with full panniers, you can feel the difference.
Can we trust the battery life advertised by manufacturers?
Consider it a guideline, not a promise. Tests are conducted under ideal conditions: eco mode, no wind, flat terrain, and ambient temperature. In real life, wind, cold, traffic, tires pressure, tires weight all play a role.
In winter or with a heavy load, expect a 15 to 25% reduction in range.
How can you make your battery last as long as possible?
Handle it with care. A lithium-ion battery lasts an average of 500 to 1,000 charge cycles, or about 3 to 5 years with normal use.
Practical maintenance tips
- Always use the original charger.
- Do not recharge the battery in freezing conditions.
- Don't leave the battery at 100% for weeks on end.
- For storage, maintain a charge between 40 and 80%.
- Choose a battery with a good Battery Management System (BMS).
What is ultimately the best battery for an e-bike?
The one that fits your life, not some sales pitch.
- Urban cyclist: 300–400 Wh, 36 V
- Commuter: 400–600 Wh, possibly 48 V
- Cycling tourism/intensive use: 600+ Wh, 48 V or 52 V
Think about the future. Today, you may only be making short trips, but tomorrow you may want to travel further. A little extra capacity often means more freedom and fewer worries.
| Type of cyclist | Typical use | Recommended capacity (Wh) | Voltage | Why this choice makes sense |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Urban cyclist | Short trips, flat terrain, errands | 300–400 Wh | 36 V | Lightweight, affordable, and more than adequate for city use |
| Daily commuter | Commuting, all weather conditions | 400–600 Wh | 36 V / 48 V | Greater safety, less stress, stable autonomy in winter |
| Long distances / adventurer | Long outings, vacations, relief | 600+ Wh | 48 V / 52 V | Maximum freedom and sufficient power |
| Cargo bike / heavy load | Children, heavy luggage, intensive use | 500+ Wh | 48 V | Essential for power, durability, and comfort |
| Cases of doubt | Variable usage, future projects | One size larger | Depending on the engine | An extra margin avoids limitations and early replacement |
FAQ
How many Wh do I need at a minimum for my commute?
For everyday use, 400 to 500 Wh is generally sufficient, depending on distance and wind conditions.
Is 48V always better than 36V?
Not always. The 48V is more powerful, but also heavier and more expensive. For urban use, the 36V is often perfect.
What is the average life of an electric bike battery?
On average, 3 to 5 years, depending on use and maintenance.
Can I purchase a larger battery later?
Sometimes yes, but it's often more expensive than choosing the right one from the start.
Does a battery lose capacity in winter?
Yes. In cold weather, you can expect 15 to 25% less range.